Time-Lapse Calculator

Knowledge Base

How Time-Lapse Interval Math Works

A time-lapse compresses a long event into a short clip by capturing far fewer frames than the final playback rate implies. The total number of frames you need is simply your target clip length multiplied by your playback frame rate. A 15-second clip at 30fps needs exactly 450 frames, regardless of how long the real event lasts. The shooting interval is then just the event duration divided by that frame count.

Choosing a Clip Length That Feels Right

Shorter target clips (10 to 20 seconds) suit fast-changing subjects like clouds or traffic, giving a punchy, energetic result. Longer clips (30 to 60+ seconds) suit slow subjects like construction projects or seasonal change, where you want the audience to sit with the transformation rather than blink and miss it.

Why Storage Adds Up Fast

Time-lapses often need far more storage than people expect, because you're capturing individual full-resolution stills rather than a compressed video stream. A single day-long time-lapse at a reasonable interval can easily produce thousands of RAW files. Shooting JPEG instead of RAW, or using an in-camera intervalometer video mode, trades some post-processing flexibility for a dramatically smaller card and faster edit.

FAQ

Q: What if my calculated interval is faster than my camera can write frames?
A: Check your camera's minimum interval for your chosen resolution and format (RAW is usually slower to write than JPEG): if the calculated interval is shorter than your camera can sustain, either lower resolution, switch to JPEG, or accept a longer final clip.

Q: Should I shoot RAW or JPEG for a time-lapse?
A: RAW gives you far more room to fix exposure and white balance shifts during a long shoot (especially at sunset/sunrise), but produces much larger files, for events where lighting is stable throughout, JPEG is usually the more practical choice.